This story was originally published in the 2023 Local Food Guide.
At Lemon Creek Fruit Farm and Winery in Berrien Springs, Kait Lemon works the same land her family first cultivated 160 years ago. When deciding to plant the area’s first Cabernet grapevines in the mid-1980’s, they didn’t do so without direction from Mother Nature.
“Great quality grapes are grown all along the West coast of Michigan, from Southwest Berrien county up to the 42nd latitude in Traverse City, which rests on the moraine of nutrient-rich soil left behind by the glacial outwash that occurred 10,000 years ago. The lake effect helps prevent frost from killing spring buds and keeps it warmer later in the year for later harvest, creating the perfect growing conditions for grapes.” explains Lemon.
A ride up the Blue Star Highway will take you to Fennville, the home of Modales Wines, where these ideal grape-growing conditions are highlighted by a regenerative view of soil health. Jamele Favorite, Marketing Manager, says, “We work to revitalize the soil with sheep grazing to continue the long-term success of the vineyard. The farming techniques we use for long-term sustainability affect the soil, and can be tasted in the final glass.” Pride for the land is also exemplified in their winemaking technique. While most wineries import yeast, an important ingredient in any alcoholic beverage, Modales is experimenting with wild fermentation, using the indigenous yeast already found on the vineyard, to double down on local flavor. In each glass of the Riesling made using this technique, “low intervention” allows for a high amount of terroir.
Old-World Tradition on New World Soil
In the Lake Michigan Shore and Fennville AVAs (American Viticultural Area) of Southwest Michigan, wine drinkers can expect ‘old-world’ techniques, a term used to describe wines with low alcohol percentages and high acidic content, to accent great grape growing conditions. “Southwest Michigan is the closest to the old tradition of winemaking in the United States, ” says Jake Nivision, Viticulturist at Domaine Berrien Cellars. “The greatest old-world wine techniques are embodied here.”
Old-world winemaking is nothing new to Jim Lester of Wyncroft Wines. His relationship with his vines started almost 40 years ago, crafting a Cabernet Sauvignon in 1983. Lester keeps it simple; “I was told it couldn’t be done, but grapes don’t adhere to political boundaries. You need great soil to make great grapes, to create extraordinary wine.”
Taste the terroir and the talent in Southwest Michigan with each glass of locally-made wine. Find a winery destination in Southwest Michigan in our Find Food and Farms Directory